Blackout
by Alter EcoImpact
Appearance 2.9 / 5
Color: | opaque grey (either on the cusp of blooming &/or too much butter) |
Surface: | + Costa Rica |
Temper: | fuzzy |
Snap: | ear bullet; laser straight edge |
Aroma 6.7 / 10
bit of a stale nostril; more Costa Rican than Bolivian: dried green cocoa, hay, & straw cut by light spiced-breeze -> tobacco + olive the under leaves
Mouthfeel 10.2 / 15
Texture: | fractious grappler |
Melt: | durable |
Flavor 34.8 / 50
plum blossom beauty -> aromatics catch up to it (Bolivian grains & grass... most prominently quinoa) &, sadly, butter curbs the progression but a lone spice (nutmeg) & simmering bitter break thru & sustain the meltdown to a black coffee / olive finish
Quality 12.6 / 20
All the packaging publicizes Bolivia yet Costa Rica is heavily implicated in the mix. And in a first, the manufacturer lists the origin of the butter used, which usually comprises approximately half of a bar’s weight but in this case substantially more, its effect being magnified at this percentage (the 80+% class). And it shows. Appearance & the Aroma signaled what’s coming in Texture & Taste. Except for that classic Bolivian entrance, the length blows thru unremarkably: an over-buttered hodge-pod of beans & processing, the rustic mate of another underpowered 85% - Marcolini’s highly-refined Fleur de Cacao.
The facts & the results taken as a whole call into question whether this is just some greenwashing wrapped in the travesty of the so-called "Fair-Trade" label as a cause-marketing tool to lure unsuspecting consumers always on the lookout for ethical products to buy.
ING: cocoa mass (Bolivia / Costa Rica), cacáo butter (Dom Rep), sugar; CBS 2:4:1
The facts & the results taken as a whole call into question whether this is just some greenwashing wrapped in the travesty of the so-called "Fair-Trade" label as a cause-marketing tool to lure unsuspecting consumers always on the lookout for ethical products to buy.
ING: cocoa mass (Bolivia / Costa Rica), cacáo butter (Dom Rep), sugar; CBS 2:4:1