Impact
Appearance 5 / 5
Color: | bloodied brown (at a shade darker than most Mads) |
Surface: | height-of-perfection: slate plate |
Temper: | luminous |
Snap: | generous butter + thin pour generates crisp clack; finely granular wall |
Aroma 8.2 / 10
roasting on the edge: cycad nuts & baobab woods dominate -> light soak of grapefruit/cherry/mango -> stale under-component (mold) to a cocoa fudge; develops over time a beautifully aeronautic vanilla-kiwi
Mouthfeel 11.8 / 15
Texture: | mealy turns buoyant butter (big by Madagascar standards due in part to lecithin) |
Melt: | turgid; evacuates astringent |
Flavor 44.5 / 50
head-butt of chocolate drift wood -> red under-currant beneath the butter surfaces to animate reeling alcohol (smooth gin) -> baobab & palm fronds a constancy bobbing just over the primal slime -> cycad -> cocoa the parting shot, drops chocolate hazelnut in its wake
Quality 16.9 / 20
Well-formulated to compensate for faulty post-harvesting - including improper drying, creating more astringency than usual for the origin, especially considering the copious butter added back in (which manages to subvert acidity & mellow the wooded tannins). The house-style further overcomes flaws thru a firm roast – in line with Coppeneur’s & Marcolini’s approach to Madagascar - & advisable at only 17% sugar content. Also of note, a thorough conche job, & vanilla, omitted in Richart’s lower 70% range, is employed here in its 80% class. This helps to both cover defects & round the flavor, making for an accessible bar overall at a rare upper-Dark weight - most Mads keep to the semi-Dark pocket (64-70%): Vestri, Guittard, Theo, Amedei, Patric) save for those extreme unsweetened issues (Pralus, Domori, Dagoba).
ING: cacáo, sugar, lecithin, vanilla
ING: cacáo, sugar, lecithin, vanilla