Impact
Sugar flows like liquid-silver over golden cocoa-stones, together forming a sensuously languid waterfall with cascading filigrees of fruit
Appearance 4.4 / 5
Color: | warm umber |
Surface: | clean front; wide fudge-like swales out back |
Temper: | soft bounce-back |
Snap: | big mold = strong snap; striations on the break |
Aroma 7.8 / 10
a fireplace of tobaccocoa + black tea acidulated by cured royal mulberry -> aerates vinyl, climbing vines, & dirty dessert wine (golden raisin & honeydew melon) poured atop peat moss
Mouthfeel 12.3 / 15
Texture: | roundness verging voluptuous, in defiance of 40% refined sugar |
Melt: | lecithin-smooth |
Flavor 43.7 / 50
opens on a tingle - sharp yet sweet peppered-cocoa -> stirs hypnotic mix of tea, mulberry, & black mission fig -> streamlines chocolate underpinning raisin – the tantalizing suspension of soft acid against mild tannin but also some chalk -> balsa to dim star anise -> sugar sweetens its way thru as dessert wine & pours it on... dissecting thick, viscous golden raisins, pale apricots, & lychee into honey-like mead while chocolate dissolves into fog -> almond marzipan
Quality 17.6 / 20
Travels the breadth of Africa (probably Ghana onto Madagascar) to blend up a tropical cocktail that plays slightly larger than 60% thanks to Chocovic's heavily smoked-seeds roasting.
Still, sugar just buckets the beans converting all that busy acidity found in the bigger 75% Tarakan into easily identifiable sweet spots forming a chain of fruits with on-rhythm sequencing & enough tannic support from cacáo to prevent cloying, although it does flatten the contour with the more 2-dimensional pleasure of sugar compared to the 3-D chocolate of higher cacáo-content.
Another assiduous blend-selection showcasing deft integration from Chocovic.
ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, lecithin; CBS (Cocoa-Butter-Sugar ratio): ~1:2:2
Reviewed Autumn 2009
Still, sugar just buckets the beans converting all that busy acidity found in the bigger 75% Tarakan into easily identifiable sweet spots forming a chain of fruits with on-rhythm sequencing & enough tannic support from cacáo to prevent cloying, although it does flatten the contour with the more 2-dimensional pleasure of sugar compared to the 3-D chocolate of higher cacáo-content.
Another assiduous blend-selection showcasing deft integration from Chocovic.
ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, lecithin; CBS (Cocoa-Butter-Sugar ratio): ~1:2:2
Reviewed Autumn 2009