Impact
In the shallows of the new demographics, a group can have the appearance of diversity while in actuality be quite homogenized. This bar breaks from the pack – in composition, composure, & completeness - & in the source of its beans having nothing to do with Ceylon but whose character does... spelling a hypnotic haze of highly-engineered, simulated taste.
Appearance 4 / 5
| Color: | medium taupe |
| Surface: | clean imprint |
| Temper: | flat |
| Snap: | clinks |
Aroma 8.8 / 10
thick & sticky: butter bar, buttermilk, butterscotch -> mulberry in an abiding cocoa-caramel base
Mouthfeel 12.6 / 15
| Texture: | soft fat & powder |
| Melt: | suede & serene |
Flavor 44.9 / 50
enters on golden hay etched in butter -> aromatics transfer almost completely except Turkish figs swap out mulberry -> butterscotching to bahri dates -> spice pack centering around cardamom -> vanilla & light clove skittering off gentle-tannic cocoa-backbone for black tea... just turfs it w/ spiced Milk Chocolate still sounding the depths
Quality 17.8 / 20
Consistently even, deceptively uniform taste with subtle breaks owing to the deeply-roasted intricacies of several components to spur interest. An exhibition, really, on butter – a couple of varieties employed here – which fixes & carries a flavor uncommonly long, warm, & dark for a Milk Choc of this percentage (36% overstates the low cocoa mass content), peaking on cardamom at mid-palate to raise the specter of Dagoba’s MC without venturing much into traditional caramel territory.
Whether as couverture or straight eating, a bar that goes the distance with intriguing points of interest along the way.
ING: sugar, cacáo butter, skimmed milk powder, cocoa mass, whey powder, anhydrous milk fat, whole milk powder, soy lecithin, vanilla, flavorings; CBS (Cocoa mass / Butter / Sugar ratio) 1:8:11
Reviewed Autumn 2009
Whether as couverture or straight eating, a bar that goes the distance with intriguing points of interest along the way.
ING: sugar, cacáo butter, skimmed milk powder, cocoa mass, whey powder, anhydrous milk fat, whole milk powder, soy lecithin, vanilla, flavorings; CBS (Cocoa mass / Butter / Sugar ratio) 1:8:11
Reviewed Autumn 2009