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Lait Entier

by Weiss
Info Details
Country France   
Type Milk Chocolate   (37%)
Strain
Source (Ivory Coast; Madagascar; Ecuador; Venezuela)
Flavor Crossover   
Style Neo-Modern      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Add a wick & burn this for a scented candle, but remember the French proverb: to want to forget something is to think of it.
Appearance   4.8 / 5
Color: tan pink
Surface: impeccable
Temper: nicely glazed
Snap: forceful bass just vibrates the malleus that connects to the eardrum; coarsely granulated edge
Aroma   6.6 / 10
a dairy factory: cultured butter -> souring coming from butyric acid (controlled lipolysis – or perhaps uncontrolled) renders chèvre tang, then scalded for gamy/toffee finish
Mouthfeel   8.3 / 15
Texture: paraffin
Melt: stuck
Flavor   35.7 / 50
malt trap -> candle wax -> vanilla -> orange -> grinds to a halt on powdered milk
Quality   14.5 / 20
As ever with Weiss, a horrific beginning recovers enough to finish well, leaving that fleeting charmed impression from an orange malt shake (intriguing cross between Madagascar and South American cacáos), as if intertwined with Ibaria. At 37%, greater chocolate backbone should stand this bar up more. Instead it tows the company line of often blank, vacant back-fill while allowing for that orange florescence (a pattern witnessed in Kacinkoa 85% & Grand Noir 57%) that has come to represent Weiss’ signature.

As for the Textural quandary, the Snap suggests only moderate intergration but actual Mouthfeel goes against this grain, the dairy & cacáo fats seemingly overconched into hard crystallization, nowhere near satin-milk; then again, far from being cloyingly sweet either.

Reviewed Autumn 2009

  

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