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Brazil 70%

by Choklat
Info Details
Country Canada   
Type Semi-Dark   (70%)
Strain Amazon   
Source Brazil   (Bahia; Floresta Azul)
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   
Style Mainstream      (w/ an Industrial nod)
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Theobroma cacáo’s the stuff of the gods. If so, then this bar represents the fat wrinkled back of God’s hand giving the children not so much a slap (can’t do that; that’d be a no-no nowadays: punishment) but a light tap in the mouth.

What a shame that that's just where Choklat's at.
Appearance   4.8 / 5
Color: light medium-brown with faint orange splash
Surface: another looker from Choklat; near perfect
Temper: semi-matte
Snap: sharp at a lower frequency; solid edge
Aroma   7.8 / 10
same out-gassing detected in Choklat’s Porcelana (is there an issue with the added cocoa butter?) -> tobacco & tea -> wild cream (RE: inga-cipo, vanilla included) + jaca (jackfruit) -> resinous teak underfoot -> eventually produces paradis- nut (think exoticized brazil nut [naturally]) against some bottom basin cocoa bouncing off rubber; strapping big to fill the room
Mouthfeel   9.4 / 15
Texture: hardened plasticity
Melt: plodding
Flavor   41.1 / 50
immediate red burst (cherry twist with caju) -> creamy thing (inga-cipo) -> throws down some rubber (OK) & tonka bean (better) for trace bitter -> doused in vanilla creates Milk Choc variant... hmmmm -> butter strangulates (damn; as with Choklat’s other bars) in between cookie sandwich (expressing vanilla) -> coffee drips -> breadfruit / jackfruit -> soft red again (strawberry) in & around wafer action -> rare fruited loops (feijoa) spritzes up a juice cocktail (accented strawberry, wondrous goose berry, guava, & açai) -> clears with a welcome stringent finish
Quality   14.3 / 20
A good bean, perhaps even a great one, except the processing mutes much of its profile.

Among Choklet’s most meticulous outputs. Even so, there’s no getting over the awkward butter cut-ins (oh, if only to capture this cacáo in the hands of Cluizel or one of the Tuscan masters – Domori and Amedei - who excel in that art).

What can be gleaned thru the fat is a Brazilian cocoa sourced from Jim & Lola Lucas’ Fazenda Venturosa in Bahia of more polish / civil flavor flags than virile Diego Baduró’s or S-B’s Tomé-Açu, though no less exotic.

A cacáo endowed with a lot of game; core chocolarity never alone, always lathered in some overlay, of strong stamina.

The Lucases are obviously tending to their business in the form of a very intriguing crop. Wouldn’t it be nice to get a clearer window on it?

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, vanilla; CBS (Cocoa Mass/Butter/Sugar ratio): ~4:3:3(huh??????? no way)

Reviewed Autumn 2010

  

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