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Dark; Milk; & White Chocolate Bars

by Ah Cacao
Info Details
Country Mexico   
Type (Dark; Milk Chocolate; White Chocolate)
Strain Criollo   (reportedly)
Source Mexico   (Tabasco)
Flavor Earthen   
Style Old School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
The resort course... as given by the Ah Café in Playa del Carmen, Quintana Roo Yucatán Mexico... with a flavor to match its location: somewhere between the Blue Parrot pub on the beach & the sand bar to its south; opposite Devil’s Throat off the coast a ways directly to the east... part of the Punta Sur coral reef near Cozumel.

Devil's Throat starts at approximately 80 feet (24 m) depth & then plunges at another 50 feet or so into a narrow, almost vertical tunnel thru the reef structure. A sweet little slipstream for free-divers (no oxygen tank makes for light, compact navigation). Along the way, the Throat features an alcove bulge of sorts -- an underwater cave called El Catedral (Cathedral) because of a cruciform sponge formation in its ceiling where, with a shaft of sunlight beaming from one of the tunnels, strikes a cross-pattern from behind as if deliberately illuminated by a halo. Probably where the Mayan Diving God (upper left) from nearby Tulu’um would stay for a weekend retreat.

Unfortunately, Hurricane Emily inflicted damage in 2005, & the cross was lost.

These bars bear the sorrow but not without hope altogether as Mexico rummages thru the lost & found of its current landscape to recover a once noble chocolate heritage.

A Chocolate Trifecta –- 3 reviews in 1. The overall rating & metrics (upper right) reflect a composite average of each bar's individual measures. Please note that Blanco was originally reviewed in 2011 & the other two in 2015.
Appearance   3.8 / 5
Color: 72%: mud
Chocolate con Leche: pale Yucatán pink
Blanco: jarring bone white
Surface: 72%: tatterdemalions
Chocolate con Leche: flaking & scaling like dandruff & psoriasis
Blanco: nice Mayan glyph on the molding
Temper: 72%: sullen
Chocolate con Leche: forlorn
Blanco: polished marble
Snap: 72%: experiential
Chocolate con Leche: gentle giant
Blanco: stone works
Aroma   7.3 / 10
72%
leather tannery in coconut shells

Chocolate con Leche
return (been awhile) of MC VOG (Milk-Choc Vanilla Oak Giant) poking around thru grandma's pantry filled with granny's panties

Blanco
Indian candy corn, chalk, casein, & coconut soap
Mouthfeel   10.3 / 15
Texture: 72%: granular
Chocolate con Leche: powder silkens into whole milk flow
Blanco: contradiction in terms: a dry White... tongue-gouging dry
Melt: 72%: quick
Chocolate con Leche: among the fastest MCs ever
Blanco: fractious & torturously slow
Flavor   36.7 / 50
72%
follows the Aroma on a buttered track lined in vanilla -> cherry stemwinder

Chocolate con Leche
Milk Duds® / Tootsie Roll® -> caustic metal (bad milk proteins) -> sweet Indian corn candy -> coconut -> vanilla chaser

Blanco
limestone & porcelain ‘til the casein spackles in -> talc & chalk & putty... for days (so persistent even sugar fails to break thru; ditto added vanilla) -> lemon-drop stucco congealed in catacombed-honey -> finishes off baking soda
Quality   13.2 / 20
72%
Better than anticipated. Acceptable in fact. Straightforward, unidimensional pop-chocolate for kids -- both young & old. Plus Texture vibes off authentic "Mayaland" heritage.

INGREDIENTS: cacao (probably with added cocoa butter), sugar, vanilla, lecithin

Chocolate con Leche
A second winsome treat; easily overcomes that misstep in the middle thanks to copious sugar, vanilla & a 36% cacáo-content plank. An upgrade in dairy quality might jump this into all-world MC status.

INGREDIENTS: cacao (probably with added cocoa butter), sugar, milk powder, vanilla, lecithin

Blanco
Abysmal. A compound fracture that sinks to the depths of Vosges’ putrid d’Oliva. Quite an achievement.

Harshly deodorized by alkalis & heavily cauterized with milk proteins – a totally unnecessary treatment for the White Chocolate category & for such a delicate cultivar if Ah Cacao truly derives this from locally-sourced Criollo-type trees. Tantamount in this particular bar to stripping all the gold out from a jewel piece only to leave worthless residuals in the alloy behind.

As detailed in the C-spot™ Atlas, White Choc provides a window onto a chocolate maker’s soul. In this bar, it’s dimly lit.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter

Reviewed (White Chocolate) April 2011
Reviewed (Dark & Milk Chocolates) 2015

  

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