Dark-Milk
by Friis Holm
Impact
Cacáo & dairy represent the flower & the bee of the cocoa industry (with sugar the nectar in between). Mixing Milk Chocolate then approximates the activity in the honeycomb: one the honey dripper, the other the honey dipper.
This the money bar from the honey jar for thee to “love the more”.
This the money bar from the honey jar for thee to “love the more”.
Appearance 3.4 / 5
| Color: | tan pink |
| Surface: | a stressed-out hot-mess (pinholes, scuffs, release marks) |
| Temper: | distraught |
| Snap: | bitchy |
Aroma 7.7 / 10
cream-driven into a chocolate-fromagerie (a sort of buttercup ala the triple-creamed Délice de Bourgogne) -> soft hay above some underbrush -> light spice cloak & faint berry
Mouthfeel 12.1 / 15
| Texture: | Wax Factor™ |
| Melt: | turgid |
Flavor 44.6 / 50
roars out a flash spice, then honey-sweetened dates & caramel quickly overtake it to buttery caramel corn -> butter toffee brittle -> buttered pecan completes the theme -> casein creeps in to shut down the progression; even so, some salted-almond pops-up with an herbal dimension (boldo leaf) -> bee pollen & honeycomb the after-length
Quality 15.8 / 20
Bonnat, the barsmith behind this private label offering, is no stranger to the Dark-Milk category. In fact, he stands among its vanguard with his trio of bars from Java.
So many variations on cocoa & cow’s butter as a condiment in this compound that Milk & Chocolate might as well be bystanders.
That only-from-France (well, maybe second only to Switzerland or Tyrol) whole cream milk powder (even the off-putting casein creates unexpectedly positive side-effects) just saturates the high cacáo butter-content of these Nicaraguan beans (witnessed in the Chuno 70% butterball). And they grow fatter together, thumping the flavor chords.
If Zotter’s 50% MC is Nicaragua sublime & otherworldly, then this plants the symbolic earthly root of it.
ING: cocoa mass, sugar, milk powder, cacáo butter
Reviewed August 24, 2011
So many variations on cocoa & cow’s butter as a condiment in this compound that Milk & Chocolate might as well be bystanders.
That only-from-France (well, maybe second only to Switzerland or Tyrol) whole cream milk powder (even the off-putting casein creates unexpectedly positive side-effects) just saturates the high cacáo butter-content of these Nicaraguan beans (witnessed in the Chuno 70% butterball). And they grow fatter together, thumping the flavor chords.
If Zotter’s 50% MC is Nicaragua sublime & otherworldly, then this plants the symbolic earthly root of it.
ING: cocoa mass, sugar, milk powder, cacáo butter
Reviewed August 24, 2011