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Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (~54%; 2010 Harvest)
Strain Amelonado   
Source Nicaragua   (La Patriota)
Flavor Naked   
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
What is this stuff? A spread? A dip? A sauce? Fudge, móle, ganache, fine frosting... some lotion, gel or face cream?

Soft chocolate? Spoon chocolate? Chocolate butter? Whipped chocolate?

Really now, what is it?

For the answer, see Quality section below.
Appearance   4.8 / 5
Color: Crayola™ brown
Surface: perfectly smooth
Temper: matte
Snap: n/a (unless breaking the glass jar it comes in)
Aroma   7.6 / 10
what starts life on basic cocoa-cream aerates rapidly as the tannins oxidize into leather, copal, tobacco & a fringe tang
still, all pretty planar
Mouthfeel   12.3 / 15
Texture: slick & sleek & so slippery it probably wouldn't even hire itself
Melt: comparatively lightning-fast & cool on the tongue
Flavor   42.7 / 50
kids cocoa-nut (cocoa+coco) -> vanilla -> mild tannic attack -> tobacco smoke thru oak (beautiful) -> lone pistachio -> caramel (in a back-cross to the vanilla) the after-linger
Quality   17.4 / 20
Q: What is this?

A: Simple spreadable stuff... but in the deep chocolate vein (notwithstanding the rather paltry 54% cacáo-content) & different.

The coconut difference.

Nova swaps out adding any cocoa butter for expeller-pressed coconut oil. Not quite a solid, coconut oil can be likened to water's various phases (liquid / solid / vapor). It reduces the melting point of a chocolate by about 10ºF (noticeable in the Mouthfeel), thus galvanizing a quicker release.

Very clean too, this particular oil modestly imparts its own flavor to taste almost clarified, serving more as a canvas that absorbs the cocoa compounds, then carries them forward beyond their weight in cacáo-content... however rapidly.

Despite that, the length is not entirely short... nor very long either; a middle concourse of sorts.

Otherwise, Nova's approach calls for a suitably simple process: out of the oven & into the grinder & that's about it.

A real crowd-getter that only looks 'quick 'n easy' because a lot of preparation has gone in behind it to get the sensory profile right.

ING: cocoa mass, coconut oil, sugar

Reviewed January 12, 2012

  

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