Impact
The olive-green wrapper signals what’s in store. It may sound drab but this, along with Madagascar, are the exception to Amedei's rather muddled ‘I Cru’ line. What it lacks in the gale force of the great "Arribas" (due to Amedei’s preternaturally cool philosophical distance), it makes up for by covering more square miles of taste territory. And compared to their prior Ecuador bars, this shows Amedei learns along the way; that the odyssey draws closer.
Appearance 3.3 / 5
looks more Trinitario than Nacional
looks more Trinitario than Nacional
| Color: | button-down brown w/ orange collar |
| Surface: | roughshod |
| Temper: | semi-flat |
| Snap: | sharp & succinct; break reveals exposed brick |
Aroma 8.1 / 10
unmistakable neo-Nacional: jams a cassia petal right up the nostrils, then clears the head w/ crocus; in its wake a lumber mill of vines, bark, green tree tops; in the distance - pistachio shells softened in olive oil
Mouthfeel 11.4 / 15
| Texture: | somewhat austere before turning greasy smooth |
| Melt: | a little fractious; welcome astringency in late stages (a good development - acids animating the flavor) |
Flavor 44.8 / 50
blinding cocoa -> blackberry hides behind bouquet of flowers before it starts foregrounding -> spicy bitter nuts take over, dusted in cinnamon -> berries surge back in for wild liqueur -> resolves almond / cocoa / pistachio; after-length green tea -> celery stalk
Quality 17.6 / 20
Roasted for extension & range, yet protects the floral sheath. Add-in masterful conching for poised acidity & this is alive & lithe.