Impact
Appearance 4.8 / 5
Color: | jet brown + flickering red shift |
Surface: | superfine finish |
Temper: | so much polish it'll shine boots |
Snap: | volcanic; crumbled edge |
Aroma 8 / 10
beautifully breezy fruits & ferns w/ acids like coastal waters surrounded by thick, soft woods
Mouthfeel 13.9 / 15
Texture: | slightly desiccated + a little bit of grip (astringency), otherwise textbook & rotund pointing why 75% is nearly the ideal cacáo count b/c of its ~3:3:2 CBS ratio |
Melt: | classic melter; heavy but even, weakens the knees |
Flavor 42.7 / 50
spurts out a candy-like chocolate grape (as if from some chemistry geek) -> dry baobab wood -> mud pie -> bitter mid-palate -> red hazing (grape 'n cherry - that geek in the lab again) -> sweet chocolate bang -> quickly covered by ferns & begonia leaf rooted in volcanic ash loaded w/ minerals... distills thru copra an astringent everclear juice (must be corn on São Tomé) -> backs out more mud pie & mocha
Quality 18.1 / 20
As ever with Pralus, it's about espresso-level roast, applied here to good effect. Assuages a lot of the island's usual aggressively tart & forward tannins, converting them to rich muddy chocolate with firm poise that stays in the pocket & lays waste to Amazon's ('Foresteros') undeserved rep for lacking fruit. Cluizel's Gracinda confects an easier, more approachable São Tomé but this is true, direct, closer to the taste of the place (unmediated by vanilla for starters), & consequently contains more of the island.