Impact
This bar an object lesson in chocolate processing. Unconched, barely mixed, a half-way house for chocoholics who can’t refuse. The power of Ocumare cacáo: whether Amano’s Nibs, this, or the ultra-finished Domori Puertomar, it’s a chocolate prince.
Peace be with you.
Appearance 4.6 / 5
Color: | mottled mahogany |
Surface: | some grain to it, slightly textural, micro pinholes... all of 'em lends character |
Temper: | semi-flat |
Snap: | shocking audible-integrity considering porous cake edge glinting w/ sugars |
Aroma 8.8 / 10
thick nut butters (almond & gianduja) deli-countered by pickled brine incl a Dominican trade wind (picholine olives) -> green tomato & tamarillo -> rubber leather -> sour cherry -> girding cocoa & spice flints; possible signs of Ocumare 67 fermented high (or conversely conched low)
Mouthfeel 13.1 / 15
Texture: | crystal dissolve... |
Melt: | ... on contact to signature full Ocumare body on melt-thru |
Flavor 42.5 / 50
cherry fudge -> spice bread (clove, cardamom & molasses) -> sugar cane (its grass, juice, & bone char, the latter for what passes as depth) -> monkey pod pulp (Albizea saman), sidewalls of peat & button mushrooms -> white chocolate-rum
Quality 16.7 / 20
Sugar dominant, well beyond its 27 or so percent. A kind of cross between Neuhaus Occumare meets Felchlin’s Crudo technique (the S.O.P. of Taza). No-to-low conching makes it impossible for cacáo compounds to re-partition along the sugar surfaces. Without much sugar absorption, binding fails. Structure collapses & separates by its very nature as the non-integrated composition falls apart into surface level ramshackle. Consequently, this scrambles desperately for depth, never reaching it, always staying rather shallow.
Undeveloped, for sure, & as expected. Still, plenty of action onto this origin’s rep for hi-flavor cacáo - practically no violent volatiles at all. Good genes & a prime meridian roast see to that.
ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter
Reviewed Summer 2010
Undeveloped, for sure, & as expected. Still, plenty of action onto this origin’s rep for hi-flavor cacáo - practically no violent volatiles at all. Good genes & a prime meridian roast see to that.
ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter
Reviewed Summer 2010