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Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (70%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Dominican Republic   (Hato Mayor del Rey; Hacienda de SPAGnVOLA)
Flavor Spices & Herbs   
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Sometimes conservative stands out as radical.

Take this bar for the D.R.

The Dominican Republic
ranks as the go-to glam spot for cacáo origins these days because of its generalized hi-quality &, no less, dynamic flavor range that rivals a club stocked with tall leggy models dressed to the fashion max vying for attention (transgenders usually win the contest). The kind that send out e-vites with a models-only door policy, AND their guests must be models too in order to be admitted.

SPAGnVOLA defies the bouncer by sliding in with this rather average pedestrian; buttoned-down & very straight. None of the peacock flowers & berries so in vogue among the chocofiends.

Consider it the good-looking number in a sea of overwhelming eye (& mouth) candy.
Appearance   3.7 / 5
Color: foreboding
Surface: lopsided pour
Temper: sealed varnish
Snap: quiet killer
Aroma   7.8 / 10
a virtual scan of its 80% sib, save for 10% extra sugar to conjure a raisin
aerates huge cocoa plume
Mouthfeel   12.7 / 15
Texture: thick for 70%
Melt: clear & clean evacuation (only the thinnest stringent film)
Flavor   42.9 / 50
roasted almonds + cocoa nuts -> sapote skin -> browns into tamarind, then flickering banana before spices... nutmeg, vanilla -- the latter strafing the taste-buds -> coffee-clove
Quality   15.3 / 20
Another center point chocolate with a supple spice quotient & a square-box structure.

SPAGnVOLA obviously appealing to market preferences with hi-vanilla cocoa, albeit at a fairly robust level (compliments of a stern roast). The official if erroneous CBS (Cocoa mass / Butter / Sugar ratio) of 8:15:17 (or ~1:2:2) betrays this bar's potency.

In both feel & flavor, it hits with heavier mass on the tongue than even SPAGnVOLA's 80%. (The company also issues a 75%; given the relative similarity between this 70% & the aforementioned 80%, it'd seem that 75% equates with just more of the same.).

Radical indeed.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, vanilla

Reviewed August 20, 2013

  

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