PERUVIAN SUITE:
Awajun
Chulucanas
Pangoa
by Szántó Tibor
Impact
The combination of collagen & minerals makes bone one of the strongest yet most flexible natural materials on earth. One cubic inch of it can withstand loads of up to 20,000 pounds, over 4 times the strength of concrete.
These 3 bars, despite their powdered-almost-pulverized Textures, impart spare / stark profiles that take it back to the boneyard of chocolate.
These 3 bars, despite their powdered-almost-pulverized Textures, impart spare / stark profiles that take it back to the boneyard of chocolate.
Appearance 3.3 / 5
| Color: | lighter side of umber |
| Surface: | adequate |
| Temper: | frosted |
| Snap: | cheeky |
Aroma 7.8 / 10
Awajun
the better aspects of a new home construction site
Chulucanas
sticks 'n stones will break a chocolate's bones but mud softens the blows
Pangoa
hi-altitude forest logging operation
the better aspects of a new home construction site
Chulucanas
sticks 'n stones will break a chocolate's bones but mud softens the blows
Pangoa
hi-altitude forest logging operation
Mouthfeel 11.9 / 15
| Texture: | powder packs |
| Melt: | longer than their Texture let on |
Flavor 42.1 / 50
Awajun
medium cool green cocoa / cacáo verde -> banana / plantain -> shoots up fresh apricot toward melt's end
Chulucanas
raw cocoa -> molasses stuffed-raisin -> bitter tar background shifts to quinine & aspirin -> gag-level talc, the buildup to limestone
Pangoa
a flint of smoked cocoa (rare for Szántó Tibor) passes like an ash in the wind to a white cocoa / legume underlying some rising fruit (cocoplum / pitomba then onto cocona) -> dry Schnapps® -> keeps fruting at express levels, dissolving cocoa support in favor of white laurel wooden ones
medium cool green cocoa / cacáo verde -> banana / plantain -> shoots up fresh apricot toward melt's end
Chulucanas
raw cocoa -> molasses stuffed-raisin -> bitter tar background shifts to quinine & aspirin -> gag-level talc, the buildup to limestone
Pangoa
a flint of smoked cocoa (rare for Szántó Tibor) passes like an ash in the wind to a white cocoa / legume underlying some rising fruit (cocoplum / pitomba then onto cocona) -> dry Schnapps® -> keeps fruting at express levels, dissolving cocoa support in favor of white laurel wooden ones
Quality 15.9 / 20
Awajun
Amazonas Province
Norandino co-op product
A halting start turns unexpectedly forgiving & fruitful by the last stanza.
Chulucanas
Piura Province
This the 6thChulucanas bar released by a boutique barsmith to enter The Chocolate Census. No one yet makes good on it despite Piura supposedly boasting "pure" indigenous cacáos comprising less than 5% CCN contaminants. Maybe the Chulucanas area hosts the entire invasive stock. Either way, may be time to give up on the quest & abandon this place.
Pangoa
Junín (Satipo) Province
The other 2 bars in this trio originate in northern Peru while this hails from down south where CCN encroaches on over a third of the landscape. Marked acidity; & quite clean to suggest native cacáo.
All 3 bars in this set exhibit Szántó Tibor's excessively light handling style of cool roast / gentle refining which highlights the upper register of the flavor spectrum at the expense of the lower realms. A quality presentation except for the Chulucanas which weighs down the overall rating considerably.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar
Reviewed August 18, 2015
Amazonas Province
Norandino co-op product
A halting start turns unexpectedly forgiving & fruitful by the last stanza.
Chulucanas
Piura Province
This the 6thChulucanas bar released by a boutique barsmith to enter The Chocolate Census. No one yet makes good on it despite Piura supposedly boasting "pure" indigenous cacáos comprising less than 5% CCN contaminants. Maybe the Chulucanas area hosts the entire invasive stock. Either way, may be time to give up on the quest & abandon this place.
Pangoa
Junín (Satipo) Province
The other 2 bars in this trio originate in northern Peru while this hails from down south where CCN encroaches on over a third of the landscape. Marked acidity; & quite clean to suggest native cacáo.
All 3 bars in this set exhibit Szántó Tibor's excessively light handling style of cool roast / gentle refining which highlights the upper register of the flavor spectrum at the expense of the lower realms. A quality presentation except for the Chulucanas which weighs down the overall rating considerably.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar
Reviewed August 18, 2015