L'Atelier du Chocolat
Impact
This atelier (or chocolate studio) in Manhattan sizes up, square footage wise, about as small as an MRI unit with its coffin-tight tube design, plus just enough standing room in the corner for the funeral director... err... lab technician wearing noise-canceling headphones to guard against the sound of the buzzer... the sonic equivalent to the loud infusions in these pieces.
Presentation 4.6 / 5
standard acetate transfers but extremely well-applied, coupled with solid enrobing technique
Aromas 3.8 / 5
pretty wide chocolate plume followed by fruit jam & flowers of nearly-artificial intensity
Textures/Melt 8.1 / 10
| Shells: | medium gauge |
| Centers: | balancing mid-weight ganache |
Flavor 40.4 / 50
classic with contemporary infusions of medicinal-strength... leaves absolutely nothing to the imagination as to what the flavor additive is... it's overstated; such high-keyed loads on the mix-ins curb chocolate's presence without entirely erasing it
Quality 23 / 30
Indelicate, & routine as far as inspiration points go, but overall technically proficient.
Selections
| Couverture: | Valrhona |
Tanzanie 75% - cherry sunburst fades to blossom, then onto a dry cocoa tannin finish; respectful
Venezuela 72% - Eric Gerard's signature piece; basically Tanzanie without any fruit inflection (to pose the conundrum: An African better than a Venezuelan?'); very plain & cream laden instead
Ylang Ylang - one of the great fragrances in the world meets the greatest flavor in it; this comes on... oops, too strong as ylang's rather anise & jasmine-like acetates bubble up to soap-level & scrub away any chocolate trace
Wasabi - hard on the heels of a hi-fruited chocolate that withers under the stinging lash of the horseradish
Red Forest Berries -- at one time strawberries & raspberries maybe came from the forest (ditto cacáo) but, c'mon man, they're about as wild now as an English garden; sounds exotic though & that sells... as does Smucker's™ which this fruit purée resembles -- a jelly jam spread across Dark Choc; berry bright & berry forward
Yuzu - very bright-breaking with a wild offset: heated pepper streaks across the citrus whose contrasts complement each other exceedingly well & chocolate the bridge between; outstanding
Caramel - soft ganache hits the standard & then some with a brooding Dark character at the finish (centered around licorice); well tailored
Hawaiian Pink Sea Salt - an uncommon Sea Salted Caramel; multifaceted... raisin skins, salt & caramel within a Dark-on-Milk Chocolate complex; a bit segregated... though, still, a peak in the collection
Reviewed 11/11/11
Venezuela 72% - Eric Gerard's signature piece; basically Tanzanie without any fruit inflection (to pose the conundrum: An African better than a Venezuelan?'); very plain & cream laden instead
Ylang Ylang - one of the great fragrances in the world meets the greatest flavor in it; this comes on... oops, too strong as ylang's rather anise & jasmine-like acetates bubble up to soap-level & scrub away any chocolate trace
Wasabi - hard on the heels of a hi-fruited chocolate that withers under the stinging lash of the horseradish
Red Forest Berries -- at one time strawberries & raspberries maybe came from the forest (ditto cacáo) but, c'mon man, they're about as wild now as an English garden; sounds exotic though & that sells... as does Smucker's™ which this fruit purée resembles -- a jelly jam spread across Dark Choc; berry bright & berry forward
Yuzu - very bright-breaking with a wild offset: heated pepper streaks across the citrus whose contrasts complement each other exceedingly well & chocolate the bridge between; outstanding
Caramel - soft ganache hits the standard & then some with a brooding Dark character at the finish (centered around licorice); well tailored
Hawaiian Pink Sea Salt - an uncommon Sea Salted Caramel; multifaceted... raisin skins, salt & caramel within a Dark-on-Milk Chocolate complex; a bit segregated... though, still, a peak in the collection
Reviewed 11/11/11