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Acul du Nord
Matasawalevu
Gianduia

by Hogarth
Info Details
Country New Zealand   
Type Dark   (+ Flavored)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Fiji   (+ Haiti; + Venezuela)
Flavor Earthen   (x Fruits/Flowers)
Style New School      (flavor-wise)
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
With New Zealand way out there in the South Pacific as its launch pad, this barsmith goes into overdrive for tricks. World-grazing destination voyeurs ordering up cacáo from far flung places. It's in the name & in the blood; a recombinant mix of a thrill ride & the wild Hogwarts Academy.

Such produces headstrong, independent, do-it-their-own-way risk-seekers, a sub-universe unto themselves.

This frees them from that awkward, frustrating tangle of being off by their lonesome on Planet Earth. So Hogarth kick-starts a spot for Type-As (Adrenalizers) & Type-Ts (Tasters). Tapping into that exploding vein among thrashers, fanatics, & slaves-of-chocolate hell-bent on gnarly.

These bars get it done.
Appearance   4.8 / 5
Color: Acul du Nord: purpled passion
Matasawalevu; a sleepier red eye
Gianduia: pink-apricot
Surface: flawless
Temper: serene
Snap: shut but sharp
Aroma   9.3 / 10
Acul du Nord
powdered dried flower top note overhangs a multiplex (cocoa, soil, leather, vinyl, pine wood, spice!)

Matasawalevu
planar, more ground level than Acul du Nord but what a grounding -- gorgeously rich chocolate-tamarind

Gianduia
soft-G as in Gianduia lotion
Mouthfeel   13.7 / 15
Texture: thick foam
Melt: undying
Flavor   41.8 / 50
Acul du Nord
sweeeet cocoa onto caramel -> blanched almond -> recombines into walnut fudge brownie whence it settles in -> bagasse -> hovering fruit concealed by lite cardamom... reveals dried mulberry -> ripe (non-astringent) persimmon -> root beer -> dates

Matasawalevu
petrol drip combusts into solid roasted cocoa -> bitter brazil nut -> sweet spot confirms tamarind in the Aromatics (above) -> kava -> black char x lime drop (weird / wild / wondrous) -> ... acerbic cocoa throughout... -> wooded back set

Gianduia
namesake gianduia thru & thru at the opening tip with, as the progression melts, a sour-bitter twist thanks to stalwart cocoa of enduring stamina
Quality   15.5 / 20
Acul du Nord
Produits Des Iles SA (PISA), Haiti; 68% cacáo-content

Not the manifold flavor the Aroma teased but a powerhouse nonetheless. Hogarth really amps it. Strength thru sweetness. Such succulent brown tones & fruits. Well-measured & cut to suit this origin.

Sourced from the PISA org whose advancing techniques in handling the poly-crop 'Creole Garden' cacáo were foretold in Taza's release a couple years ago.

Matasawalevu
Vanua Levu, Fiji; 73% cacáo-content; Amelonado-based

Once again Hogarth brings heavy. Except this one lays on bitterly. An unruly allotment -- several misfits among the staunch middle of the bell curve that overall makes for misalignment. Alternates between un/appealing currents, some which run concurrent. Sort out the bad seeds & this wins.

Gianduia
Puerto Cabello, Venezuela

Seamless integration at a perfect pitch on the first lap around the lips to give the Domori gold standard a run for its once-novel dark chocolate Il Gianduja Fondente.

This bar eventually lags to an intriguing then intruding cocoa that may furnish fresh novelty -- that sour-bitter tonic in the mid-section -- albeit somewhat faltering. Surprising too, for the regional cacáo packs a punch despite constituting less than half the total bar in a Barithmetic (Cocoa / Hazelnut / Sugar ratio) of ~9:6:5. Further flavor development of the base chocolate would smooth the spikes & jolts. Which might work against the intent here, viz., to awaken somnambulant tastebuds jaded from umpteenth bars of the fine stuff.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter (for Gianduja add hazelnuts)

Reviewed March 7, 2018

  

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