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Info Details
Country UK   (via Germany)
Type Dark-Milk   (70%; Lot 10147 via Coppeneur)
Strain Hybrid   (Criollo present??)
Source St. Lucia   (Soufrière; Rabot Estate)
Flavor Earthen   
Style New School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
To the Personnel Providing Security on the Grounds of Hotel Chocolat: for the sake of all guests, please re-check the papers on this “Criollo-rich Trinitario”, as well as the ferment boxes for any evidence of unsealed wood, the drying technique (which in this case includes properly inspecting the emergency sprinkler system & fire extinguishers in the hallways as well as guest rooms), & arrange for plenty of hessian sacks (in which these beans were stored) to be re-purposed into body bags.

Finally, terminate whoever ordered this act of bio-terrorism.

A disaster in the very making. Not since the Windsor Castle conflagration of 1992 has England had to observe so helplessly.
Appearance   4.2 / 5
Color: golden-copper
Surface: plastic transfer from the inner lining of the wax paper + scuffs & streaks
Temper: hazy
Snap: bends around the midrange
Aroma   8.1 / 10
milk & vanilla mollify this bar’s Darker brother-of-the-same mother... the fruits curtailed, the molasses recessed as tobacco billows some & crème anglaise pours lightly over hard volcanic cocoa punctured by a fine pine cone -> eventuates chocolate-hazelnuts
Mouthfeel   5.3 / 15
Texture: hotel slumber party
Melt: eventful (see Flavor below)
Flavor   34.8 / 50
loads in praliné -> vulcanized chocolate hard on its heels -> deep toffee cut by bittering pitch pine -> dairy clods of some hoof -> a first in the annals of the C-spot™: a hair strand (strawberry blonde... hmmm, food-critics in the UK prefer strawberries ‘n cream, don’t they?) followed by an undisclosed fragment... both pulled from the chasm before a lavalanche swallows all in molten charcoal culminating in burnt hessian (much worse used to commonly show up in candy bars & sometimes still does: dirt, brick dust & lead)
Quality   12.6 / 20
Odd, a DM at a higher percentage than HC’s darkest Rabot to date (as of 2011). Guess it fears to even dare go there without the milk ‘n vanilla crutches, seeing how it’s 65% Dark poured a hard lavalanche.

While already attempted by Slitti with Lattenero, 70% DM still approaches the upper reaches, although nowhere near scaling the max of the format in Santander's Mayan Dark (nor the finesse of either).

The proverbial lump of coal & just a “dash of milk” provides the lighter fluid for Coppeneur, the actual author of this & no stranger to the category (this, that, here and there, plus again, then yet again) to put all its skills to the test (& then some)... the ones it brought to bear on another rambunctious origin in dousing the smoldering peat of PNG.

Pity poor Coppeneur though; how to deal with this rebellious bean? Assault it with high torrefaction (done); 48-hour conche (quite sufficient except, compared this compound’s 120-hour sibling, it raises suspicions the electricity was cut off); vanilla (plenty); plus milk (yep)... & still no suppressing it. Torching the roast, in fact, only provokes it further! Ditto the peculiar goat’s throat to the milk flavor which retards any remaining acidity to the cocoa.

A calamity; one the most bizarre bars out there. Could do to Coppeneur’s stock what the Gulf spill did for BP: virtually sink it. (Unless, of course, it deferred upon receiving the beans & advised the client with 'only if you insist...')

ING: cocoa mass, whole milk pwdr, sugar, vanilla, soy lecithin

Reviewed Summer 2010

  

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