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75%

by Olive & Sinclair
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Brut   (75%; Batch #062112)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Dominican Republic   (Conacado Cooperative)
Flavor Twang   
Style retro-American      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
This new wave of American barsmiths sweeping across the country (Dandelion, Fresco, Woodblock, Ritual, et al.) are kicking up a splash in confined areas as regional players. Where the preceding generation (Amano, Askinosie, Tcho, etc.) were driven by bigger ambitions of a more int’l dimension -- often venturing far & wide to source cacáo on their own, presenting an around-the-world tasting tour of origins, & then hustling / lobbying to scoop up innumerable awards (however dubious their distinction; re: highly for the most part) -- this younger crop sits content to mine the undergrowth of their own backyards, sticking closer to home, purchasing cocoa nuts from a single broker (usually Chocolate Alchemist, John Nanci). Hence, all share rather common offerings in their line-up. They hone their craft &, just as critically for survival, their business in a down home way. (Sad but true reality: most barsmiths, even the ambitious ones, hardly turn a profit. Those with more localized focus – Soma, Mast Bros – fare better with the bottom line.)

No one so proudly & boldly displays this regional character as Olive & Sinclair (O&S). While others may run from their small town blues, O&S wears it right on the face of the wrapper.

Don't expect any major distribution overseas; or pop-up shops either. Euros & Asians will have to travel some to get it.

Southern Artisan Chocolate… Stoneground in Nashville, Tennessee.

Stomach that, Music City fans.

Appearance   2.3 / 5
Color: ink brown
Surface: smudged
Temper: dulled
Snap: feeble
Aroma   6.8 / 10
a bottle of red trapped in a tar pit lined with cardboard -> throw in a match & it all goes up in tobacco smoke
Mouthfeel   10.7 / 15
Texture: grainy shards
Melt: overstays its welcome
Flavor   32.9 / 50
brown sugared chocolate with a raw cocoa edge -> green tobac leaf -> souring F/X on granadillo which skips along for the remainder of the length -> red spot amidst a bitter root -> flushes down sorghum & persistent cat's piss (the latter the bile by-product of the sour fruit)
Remember: Lid Up, Seat Down (illustration by Steve Breen)
Quality   9.6 / 20
Takes a very light tact to leave well enough alone except this seed ain't all that well in a reversal of fortune for cacáo in The Dominican Republic.

Almost Taza-like but without the unconched sugar crystals. At least the crystals in Taza's D.R. catalyze the cocoa to express some ripened fruit juices. This just expels ill-defined sourness to lend a bit of moonshine character to the regional flavor.

And that other Southern difference -- brown sugar -- used by barsmiths (Adi, Vestri to name just a couple) but more in congruence with the cooking & culture of the South in the USA (from glazed carrots, baked ham, apple brown betty & bourbon pecan pie as well as molasses & sorghum plantations) acts as a cover here for under-processing. More raw than most "raw"-labeled chocolate... is this even roasted?; minimally conched, & barely tempered. Maybe S&O have other jobs to attend to (in banking? entertainment? who knows?) to bother with such details.

In general, very little Southern hospitality, pride or warmth in this chocolate.

A rarity for the new millennium: an unforgettable bar from D.R... for the wrong reasons.


ING: cocoa mass, brown sugar, cocoa butter

Reviewed March 2012

  

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