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60% Dark Milk

by Mānoa
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark-Milk   (60%; Lot 279/1-15)
Strain Hybrid   (of some Criollo germplasm)
Source Papua New Guinea   (Morobe Province; Markham Estate)
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   
Style Rustic      
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hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
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Dharma bums in the Kerouac crowd understand that yab-yum involves the Tibetan Buddhism concept for divine sexual union.

In the modern era this funnels into 'finding your yummy' -- a euphemism for 'the C-spot', whenever it pertains to chocolate.

For chocolate, Jung may say, marries the light (sugar spice) with the dark (cacáo seeds). Adding milk in an elaborate ménage forms what beatniks of today might call 'yab-yum-yo' -- as in, yo, check this daisy chain of yin-young-yoni which qi gongs into an LGBT cause, seeing how all 3 (milk / sugar / cacáo) represent the feminine aspect.

And since the main topic of this site covers appetites, naturally the euphemism for 'lesbian' becomes 'vagatarian'.

The beauty of it… guys like to eat it too (without having to stick their yang in).

Gentlemen, if rejected, try this -- no need to guess if 'yes' still means 'yes' (nonverbal gestures & otherwise) or face assault charges.

Appearance   4 / 5
Color: rose pedigree
Surface: nucleated...
Temper: … wrapper transfer
Snap: snug
Aroma   7.9 / 10
sticky yellow fruit caught in a tar pit of crude oil -> vaporizes neutral petrol -> sisal & Mānoa's signature house grains -> flint & peat
Mouthfeel   12.3 / 15
Texture: powdered gum
Melt: forgiving
Flavor   47.8 / 50
red to its color (cherry) -> powdered candy ala Wonka Pixy Sticks® of almost artificial intensity -> yellow fruit (golden raisin & champedak) -> caramel -> grape Bubble-Yum® quality (both Flavor & Texture) -> Stretch Island® crazy fruit leather -> acacia -> malted Milk Choc ball -> peaty-cocoa outtake
Quality   18.5 / 20
Similar to smoked Java 'A's in neighboring Indonesia, Milk Chocolate offers a very noble use of Papua New Guinea's kiln-fried cacáo to question why so few barsmiths attempt it in this format. Indeed, dairy covers for a lot of deficiencies, if need be.

Mānoa thankfully sources from one of the more select estates of the island nation -- Markham… gleaned way back with Cluizel's introduction of it when this nut-to-nosh niche counted a finite number of players in its universe, before the burgeoning home-ec hobbyists started to proliferate. Credit Wall St. & Washington DC with throwing Main St. onto the unemployment rolls so the folks could dabble in chocolate fantasies. Well done, masters-of-the-universe / power brokers.

Back on point: like Eve who issued forth from Adam's rib, that this Milk bar derives from Mānoa's wayward Dark bar forces some head-scratching. Such is the alchemy of chocolate. Dumfounding. So be it. Mānoa taps into the inner genie of an evidently succulent harvest. A bounty in a bar that keeps giving… endlessly, without let up. All the Flavor compounds comport so well amongst themselves. And sweet to say the least.

Fairly rare for a Milk (Dark-Milk or regular) to feature such a pronounced Fruits 'n Flowers profile. Other Dark-Milks from Papua show decidedly Earthen (e.g., Tabuna by Coppeneur). The only bar that comes close would be Zokoko's 36% Toklaia which benefits from significantly more cane sugar to catalyze its fruit accents. That they appear here with reduced sugar surprises hardly at all considering Fresco's #220 Papua New Guinea at 69% (without milk) which this bar parallels to a striking degree.

First Maunawili & now this Markham point to Mānoa entering a very promising phase of its development as a chocolate barsmith.

Reviewed October 2, 2014

  

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