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Ecuador Vertical

by Troubelice
Info Details
Country Czech Republic   
Type Brut   (+ Dark; + Dark-Milk; + Flavored)
Strain EET   
Source Ecuador   
Flavor Crossover   
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
A vertical taste-flight all the way from the pod seed to the pressed oil
Appearance   4.8 / 5
outstanding & informative boxed-set collection


Color: Seeds: small sample size (just 8) but well in excess of the industry norm 1 gram per & so oblong & plump
100%: jet brown
Hořká: reflects its Seed (above)
Mléčná: swarthy pink
Bílá: a green White Chocolate (see Flavor section below for details)
Surface: Seeds: pink coral husks (easy peel); 2 types of cotyledons – a) golden brown & b) slate brown verging on black
100%: same pod-motif mould as E. Euro neighbor Szántó Tibor
Hořká: stressed-out
Mléčná: clean hygiene
Bílá: flush
Temper: Seeds: well-veined
100%: recessed
Hořká: ditto
Mléčná: matte
Bílá: the model of composure
Snap: Seeds: friable
100%: dumb
Hořká: smarts some
Mléčná: the silent type
Bílá: subsonic


Aroma   8 / 10
in addition to typical Ecuadorian herbal forest meadows, an unusual caramel too
Mouthfeel   12.4 / 15
Texture: percentage-correct
Melt: built to last
Flavor   42.6 / 50
Seeds
open savory, almost tartar sauce-like -> bites down onto topsoil + chicory root -> twine -> medicinal root / bark / quinine -> shuts off dry & stringent

100%
defined but brief sweet chocolate instantly rolls over to tannic unsweetened cocoa of no relief & almost no redemption except for the bitter comes from the good Earth variety -> pounding metal (more copper than lead) -> heavy cocoa butter (none added supposedly) spares / saves it

Hořká
75% cacáo-content
nuts (deep roasted filbert) -> flowers (the musky amber of cistus)-> spice (panela sweetener) -> creams away with breadfruit -> dark mocha
Hořká in Czech means "bitter". In other words, Troubelice tells a good lie as this practically exudes none.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter

Mléčná
51% cacáo-content
thick floral-caramel of almost powder room density (exceptional)… which in this case turns to milk powder -> banana / brown sugar -> melt downs into a deep grain silo -> sweet cream ending
Well-done from start to finish without skipping a beat. A crowd-getter 'n pleaser.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, milk powder, cocoa butter, sugar

Bílá
40% cacáo-content (as cocoa butter)
murky lake bottom of soft sediment & algae -> salted butter rescues would-be drowning victim but more chlorophyll hangs around as seaweed wraps the tongue -> late split pea soup -> sweet vegetal after-action
Curious pair: cocoa butter & spirulina. The latter provides both the gagging to the progression as well as the high point since it contains enough sodium to produce that umami moment. Before & after then, however, it hardly provides good taste. Gotta luv the cartoon slime-green color though.
Quality   15.1 / 20
Troubelice becomes the 2nd Czech barsmith after Jordi's to enter The Chocolate Census. Its profiles, excluding Bílá, appeal to a more conventional sense of chocolate which should win it adherents from all over.

Reviewed September 17, 2015

  

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