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Sisa's Secret

by Kallari-Sacha
Info Details
Country Ecuador   
Type Dark   (70%)
Strain Blend   
Source Ecuador   (Napo River Valley; Salinas de Guaranda)
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   
Style New School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Sisa means "flower" in Kichwa. Apt since cacáo starts life as a flower bud & Ecuador's fabled Arriba Nacional, currently in recession, once displayed floral impressions in its finished chocolate. Those fragrances now lie so dormant as to be covert in most bars originating from this country.

To compensate for this vanishing flavor, Kacha-Sacha adds another flower -- the orchid V. planifolia, known popularly the world over as plain vanilla. And thus so hidden under a veil of vanilla that that is this sisa's top secret.

Clever... Kallari's handlers mediating the scents as an Aimé Guerlain mixing 3 synthetic raw elements -- terpene alcohol ß-linalool, coumarin, & ethyl vanillin -- to create Jicky in the same year (1889) that Eiffel built his ironwork.

Distortion is a helluva subterfuge.

Appearance   3.5 / 5
Color: frosted pale hue
Surface: marred & scarred
Temper: seething
Snap: psst
Aroma   8.2 / 10
a harmonium of vanilla, cocoa & coconut topped by a powdered perfume with a cooling peppery mint compound (menthone)
Mouthfeel   12 / 15
Texture: buttericious on contact
Melt: quick & easy
Flavor   41.9 / 50
vanilla cream -> dried fruit (loganberry) -> latex holds off the green cocoa edge -> Girl Scout®cookie dough -> menthol hungover from the Aroma
Quality   15.7 / 20
An under-riding cacáo / cocoa at loose ends with itself so Kallari binds it all together in clouds of vanilla & raw cane that renders brown sugar FXs.

Pretty convincing though; harbors those "raw chocolate" spikes for "adult" tastes as well as the cookie batter for the the kidz.

Still, no denying that, overall, the alliterative suite of 3 hand-tempered bars (Diego's Decadence, Roberto's Recipe, & this Sisa's Secret) from Kallari's internal line called Sacha (a convoluted market maneuver) regresses from the brand's initial releases some years ago (the correlative 85%; 75%; 70%).

Where those early bars reflected standard rustic sensibility, these newer ones apparently hope to join ranks with the lucrative "raw chocolate" rage (in taste / vibe if not actually in un-roasted processing) & the retro-American style so fashionable nowadays. In some respects it succeeds with neither... because of being roasted on one hand, & tricked-out with vanilla & raw sugar on the other.

Let's hope it's just part & parcel of the growing pains rather than Kallari reaching its peak before it ever climbed out of its high chair.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, raw sugar, cocoa butter, vanilla

Reviewed February 28, 2013

  

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